Maybe you saw that episode of Will & Grace when Grace wore a
bra padded with water to make her seem bustier. She's at a classy
art gallery opening when the bra springs a leak. It's hilarious
on TV, but it does conjure up nightmares for any girl who's ever
wondered if her bra might disobey her and do something awful.
So why bother with bras?
Bras not only minimize jiggling and shape the appearance of a girl's
breasts, they're also helpful from a health standpoint. Wearing
the right bra keeps a girl's breasts supported while she's playing
a sport and can help prevent injury to breast tissue. A well-fitting
bra is also important for a woman's posture, particularly if she
has large breasts. A bra that doesn't fit can cause back problems,
muscle tension, and even headaches.
Yet seven out of 10 women wear bras that don't fit.
All About Straps, Snaps, Bands, and Cups
Finding the right bra doesn't have to be an ordeal if you know the
basics of bra sizing. There are two parts to a bra's size: the chest
size (also called the band size) and the cup size. The chest, or
band, size is the part of the bra that runs across a girl's chest
and around her back. The cups are the parts of the bra that hold
the breasts. Bras come in many sizes, which are different combinations
of the chest sizes (shown as numbers - in the United States, these
are 32, 34, 36, etc.) and cup sizes (shown as letters - AA, A, B,
C, etc.) It's important to get both the chest and cup sizes right
to ensure a proper fit. Some bra manufacturers are now starting
to offer cup options in half sizes in addition to regular cups to
help girls get a better fit.
If a girl wears a bra that's the wrong chest size, the bra's band
will either feel tight and uncomfortable around her rib cage or
it will be too loose and ride up her breasts. Bras that are too
small in the cup will compress a girl's boobs and force them to
bulge out the sides (think armpit boobs). And cups that are too
big can wrinkle and pucker, which won't look good under clothes.
So how do you calculate your chest and cup measurements? It's easy,
and it's something you can do in the privacy of your own room at
home. All that you need is a tape measure.
measurement. Bra fitting experts offer two methods of calculating
the chest measurement. The most common method involves running a
tape measure just under your breasts, all the way around your back
and rib cage. The tape measure should rest flat on your skin and
lie straight across your back - not so tight that it digs in, but
not so loose that it sags down in back. Make a note of your measurement
and add 5 inches. That's your chest size.
You can also estimate your chest size by running a tape measure
across your chest above your breasts, under your armpits, and around
your back (measure from the same back position as in the first chest
measurement option). This method is easier because you don't have
to do any addition or other calculation, but some people feel it's
less accurate than using the first method.
If your chest measurement comes out as an odd number (such as 31
inches or 33 inches), it's usually a good rule to round up to the
next number. Most bras have a few sets of adjustable hooks and eyes,
so you can adjust the tightness. It's a good idea to round up, rather
than round down, because when you buy a new bra that hooks on the
first or middle hooks - rather than on the last - you can leave
room for growth.
Cup measurement. As with the chest measurement, when you're measuring
for cup size, make sure the tape is snug - not too loose or too tight.
If you already own an unpadded bra that fits well, wear it when measuring
for cup size. Be careful about the type of bra you wear to take your
measurements, though. Sports bras can flatten breasts and give a cup
reading that's too small, and padded or lined bras have the opposite
This time, when you run the tape measure around your body, you're
going to take the measurement across the fullest part of your breasts.
Write down this number. Now subtract your chest measurement. If
the difference between the two numbers is less than 1 inch, your
cup size is AA. If it's 1 inch, your cup size is A; 2 inches, you're
a B; 3 inches you're a C, and so on.
So you've taken your measurements and you're in the fitting room
trying a bra in what's supposed to be your size - but it doesn't
seem to fit. Now what? Before you pile on all your clothes just
to go out and look for a different size, experiment by making some
adjustments to the bra. Extend or shorten the band around your chest
slightly by moving the hooks to a different eye on the hook and
eye closure (or adjust the velcro if the bra has a velcro closing).
The bottom band of a properly fitting bra should ride across the
middle of your back and pass under your shoulder blades to provide
the right support.
A bra's straps allow you to modify how the cups fit and support
your breasts. When the straps are the right length, a bra lifts
the breasts comfortably and the back of the bra will run straight
across your back (if a bra is pulling upward in the back, it may
be a sign that the straps are too tight). You should be able to
get one finger under the straps to prevent them from digging into
your shoulders. In general, girls who are petite will need to wear
their bra straps shorter than girls who are tall.
Bra Booby Traps
In addition to fit, there are some other things you might want to
take into account when choosing a bra.
Breast growth. A girl's breasts can grow and change rapidly during
the teen years, which means that until you stop developing, you
might have to change your bra size several times. If your breasts
are still growing, consider buying fewer bras and measure yourself
frequently to double-check your size. Because growth can make a
girl's breasts sensitive, you might find certain styles or fabrics
work better for you. For example, some girls like seamless cups
because they don't irritate the nipples; others choose styles that
minimize jiggle to ease the occasional aches of breast development.
Menstrual changes. Some girls' breasts change size or shape at
different times in their menstrual cycles. Many girls find they
like to wear different styles of bras at different times in their
Different-sized breasts. Most girls' breasts grow at different
rates - and many girls find themselves with one boob that's bigger
than its partner. This is so common that bra manufacturers design
their products so they can be adjusted to accommodate lopsided breasts.
Start by moving the strap adjusters on a bra to different lengths
to see if this helps. Some girls also use the trick of buying a
bra that has removable padding and then taking the extra padding
out of the cup for the larger breast. Push-up bras can work well
for this because they often come with an easily removable padded
section (called a "cookie") that sits under the breast.
Hooks, wires and other hazards. Take a look at the bra you're about
to buy and imagine how it might survive a full day of wear. If the
front closure pops open too easily, could this bra let you down
in front of your entire drama class? The bra's straps may feel fine
in the fitting room, but if the adjusters are sitting right on your
shoulder or collarbone, how will that feel under your backpack?
Test to see if the bra band is too loose by lifting your arms in
the air and putting them back down by your sides a couple of times.
If the bra rides up across your breasts, the band is too loose.
If you're looking for a sports bra, jump up and down in the fitting
room a couple of times to evaluate the bra's bounce control.
You may also want to try on a T-shirt or sweater over a bra you're
thinking of buying to get the finished effect. That pink rose on
the front may look cute on the bra itself, but does it make you
look as if you've sprouted a third breast once your T-shirt's on?
No matter what the size or shape of a girl's breasts, the most
important thing to remember in choosing a bra is comfort. Try on
a variety of bras to find the one that's right for you. Some girls
prefer the comfort of cotton, others like the support of synthetics
or underwires. There are minimizer bras for girls who'd like their
breasts to look smaller, or padded bras for girls who'd like a little
extra shape. No one bra is better than another - it all depends
on which style works best for you.